By Thomas Ekman, J.D., M.Ed. • 

I started surfing in 1987, but until last year, I had no idea that you could bodysurf down-the-line. In 2014, I was dating a pro-am surfer chick on O’ahu, and (to avoid embarrassing comparisons) I would paddle out with a water cam and shoot pix of her shredding. I bought a Hydro plane for added paddling.

One day at Mokuleia (Haleiwa), I caught a wave in the bowl and stuck out the Hydro plane. My first thought was: “I’m planing!”. My second thought was: “this skitchy thing needs a skeg!”

In March 2015, I found Sole Handplanes online, and knew instantly that Todd had the formula with Sole’s unique convexity. The problem of tracking was solved. I bought a pair of Da Fins and got to work.

I got my first big wave at Publics in Honolulu, and when I started flying down-the-line high in the pocket, I instinctively threw my back hand behind and above me to keep from sliding down the wave (not even knowing that about the layback technique – it just happened). I rode that wave an 1/8 of a mile over near-dry coral heads, with a couple of surfers hooting me on – I was slotted! At the end of the wave, I was seriously sucking wind. I looked back at the pack, and they were like fly specks. I couldn’t believe I had ridden that far. I was HOOKED! Long rides have been my passion ever since.

I’ve been bodysurfing almost-daily since that wave.   I’ve been surfing Suicides on O’ahu at first light to beat the crowds, or Pt. Panics (bodysurfing’s Mecca) mid-day, where I discovered that bodysurfers are a cool breed: guys would regularly give each other wave, or double-up – no big deal.

I made the most progress night-surfing Queens in Waikiki – one of the most crowded breaks – during the 10 days around the full moon. I used Stellarium to plot when the moon would be between 40 and 20 degrees to the horizon – optimal for seeing incoming sets. Having that perfect right all to myself, I moved forward in skill fast, pulling rollos and pull-out moonlit barrels. I would catch 20+ barreling waves per session regularly.

I’m now living in Guerrero, Mexico, riding sandbars for the first time. While I still like long rides, the crowds on O’ahu were very tough for a bodysurfer, and dodging skegs was frustrating. Now, I have the freedom to bodysurf freely until my body is a limp noodle.

On a consistent left or right, I use a Sole Handplane Moon Tail for my leading plane, and a 2nd Whomper as my trailing plane. I find the 2^nd plane not only makes for more balanced paddling, but I’m constantly using it to either layback, hold my edge below, or stick it out in front for added speed. In A-frame sandbars, I use 2 Whompers.

I see bodysurfing as the ultimate finesse form of wave-riding – profoundly more satisfying than board-surfing. I love the feeling of planing, doing a layback and getting perfectly slotted, the barrels, and the simple joy of being unfettered in the water without a board or leash.   I often wear goggles so I can watch the beautiful spectacle of waves breaking underwater. I’m also a fitness junkie and bodysurfing is the BEST exercise on the planet, bar none.

After 25 years of board-surfing, I had been feeling my stoke waning for years. Bodysurfing is like starting the surfing love affair all over again – a most precious gift.

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